In search of “the other side” of Tuscany

Tuscany often conjures images of rolling vineyards, cypress-studded hills, and Renaissance masterpieces that adorn the chapels and galleries of Florence, Siena, and Pisa. But mountains? Marshland? Vast sandy beaches? On the westernmost edge of Tuscany, a different side of Italy’s most well-loved region spreads out from the Tyrrhenian Sea, where mountains meet the coast, and miles of bike paths connect ancient ruins with biodiverse wetlands.

So if you’re partial to the road less traveled, second cities, an underdog (etc.), consider tracing the tracks of my latest slow travel route in search of “the other side” of Tuscany.

Day 1: Breakfast in London, Lunch in Paris, Dinner in Italy

Harriet Matthews

Sounds like breakneck speed, right? Surprisingly, the first (and longest) day of travel passed leisurely. In between working (thanks to great train Wi-Fi), I gazed out at the reeling landscape as it changed from the flat plains of northern France to the mountains of the French and Italian Alps.

Highlight: Breakfast on the Eurostar. Opting for Eurostar Plus cost an additional £40, but gave me a separate solo seat in a quieter car, a light meal (with coffee refills), and extra legroom.

Harriet Matthews

Pro tip: If you’re up for it, walking between a necessary transfer from Gare du Nord and Gare de Lyon is a great way to watch the daily humdrum of the French capital, and swing by a boulangerie en route.

Transfers: Due to a landslide, trips from Paris into Italy currently require a short bus transfer between St. Jean de Maurienne and Oulx, entirely organized by the rail operator SNCF. I found the transfer a) clear and easy to navigate and b) surprisingly enjoyable to weave through the Alps by bus.

Harriet Matthews

Day 2: Turin, and getting my bearings in Grosseto

After arriving in darkness, I had a morning to see Turin in the light. It’s one of my favorite unsung places to break up an onward trip through Italy. It’s generally unfussy (and easy on the wallet), with a smattering of grand arcades and wide boulevards for a touch of grandeur. It’s the kind of place you can wander without a plan and stumble across something interesting (not least flashes of the Alps at the end of several streets).

Highlight: My first Italian espresso and browse through the magazines at Pressato (a coffee shop and bookstore in the heart of town), before boarding the direct train along the coastline of Cinque Terre and south to Grosseto.

Harriet Matthews

After arriving at Grosseto’s station, it was a 20-minute walk or a short taxi ride into the center. I dumped my bags and headed out for a stroll around the leafy city walls and through the honey-hued old town as the Tuscan sun set.

Harriet Matthews

To eat: Tucked away inside the bricks of the city walls is Ristorante Le Mura, a relaxed restaurant specializing in seafood and local Tuscan fare. The waiter asked me if I could be tempted by the house tiramisu. “Or if you want ice cream, head to Arlekkino around the corner—it’s the best in Grosseto.” He was not wrong! Sweet tooth, satisfied.

Day 3: Etruscan and Roman history

The town of Grosseto has enough for a few days of gentle exploration. The small but impressive Clarisse Cultural Center is well worth a visit (housing a permanent collection of seventeenth-century Florentine art and rotating contemporary exhibits), as is the Cathedral in the central square. Museum of Archaeology and Art of the Maremma is one of Grosseto’s most fascinating museums, that really comes to life once you visit the nearby ancient city of Roselle, where all the museum’s exhibits were discovered.

Harriet Matthews

Thanks to an extensive network of marked bike paths (which have recently been recognized by the European Green Pioneer of Smart tourism award), many of the sites just beyond the town are easily reachable on two wheels (or via the bus services in operation in the summer). The town isn't short on bike rental shops, from where a well-marked bike path leads out to the ancient city of Roselle.

Unlike many of the Etruscan and Roman ruins across much of Italy, the sites surrounding Grosseto see very little tourist foot traffic and are incredibly well-preserved. When you reach Roselle, you can walk right through the ancient tracks of the old main street and stand on the original Roman mosaics.

Harriet Matthews

Highlight: Watching the purple haze and sunset from the top of the ruins across the Maremma.

Day 4: Finding my inner birder in the Diaccia Botrona marshes

On day four, the same trusty bike lanes took me out into wilder territory: the Diaccia Botrona marshes, considered the most important wetland in Italy. We met our guide inside the ‘Cassa Rosa,’ a red-brick house now filled with information about the reserve, but originally built as a shelter from malarial mosquitoes. She told us about the history of the Maremma, with the Diaccia Botrona being the last remains of the 50-square-kilometer Lake Prile, which was drained in the 19th century to restore the region's health.

“Today, it’s one of the most important landscapes in the area,” she explained, “and home to some of the richest and most varied biodiversity in Italy.” From recently reintroduced ospreys to flamingos standing on one leg, orange butterflies to thickets of long grass, the entire marsh buzzed with wildlife. I grabbed a pair of binoculars and headed down to the birdhouse at the bottom of the marsh.

Highlight: Spotting flamingos in the distance standing on one leg. Or watching an osprey fly overhead. I’m no pro-birder, but now I GET it!

Day 5: Hiking across the Maremma (and refueling on fresh pasta and porcini)

Harriet Matthews

My most adventurous day started at the visitor center of Maremma National Park, in the nearby village of Alberese—just a short bike or bus ride from Grosseto. I had strict instructions from my host at the house where I was staying: “If you do anything during your time here, hike up to San Rabano [an abandoned monastery at the top of the mountain]. It’s a special place.”

Hiking boots on (though regular sneakers would’ve worked just fine), with a water bottle, my camera, and snacks in tow, I set off along the A1 trail leading to the summit before heading back down the mountain toward the coast. It was mostly easy to navigate with the map I picked up from the visitor center, with plenty of spots to take a shortcut if needed (see the routes here). After the steep climb up to the monastery, the trail led me past spectacular viewpoints of the Ombrone plain, through the 400-year-old Ollelungo olive grove, down to Collelungo beach, and through the pines back to Alberese, crossing paths with only 8 people on the entire day’s hike (aside from the group of farmers working in the olive grove).

Highlight: taking a refreshing dip on the deserted beach, Spiaggia di Collelungo, looking back at the mountain I’d climbed. The water was pleasantly warm, even for early November.

To eat: After a day out on the trails, my soul was fed, but my stomach was grumbling. I wound up at Ristorante Canapone, specializing in locally sourced ingredients and traditional culinary techniques. After a mouthwatering tortelli demonstration, out came plates of pasta with porcini mushrooms: a Tuscan specialty and the first of this season’s harvest. It was a match made in heaven paired with glasses of local red, Morellino di Scansano Riserva —named after the native Maremma horses I’d spotted out in the national park earlier that day.

Day 6: The scenic route from Grosseto to Florence

Leaving Grosseto, I had two options: the express train straight to Florence, or the slower local service requiring a transfer in Siena. I went with the latter, and I’m so glad I did. The train cars were quiet (I had a whole car to myself), meaning I could wander around, switching between seats on the left and right sides of the train for the best views. The single-track rail line meant a slower pace, but allowed the train to weave through ancient woodlands, roll through vineyards, and pass stops in tiny Tuscan villages.

Harriet Matthews

Harriet Matthews

Beautiful views aside, the train itself was the adorable Minuetto train and—here’s where I go full train buff—purpose-designed with the concept of “superior passenger comfort and easy car-to-car access and transparency.” This concept of seamless access also struck me as I watched people board and get off the cars in tiny hamlets along the line, connected by this single, small yet perfectly formed local train that allowed them to access railways that connected them to nearby places.

Highlight: Arriving in Florence in the evening, with plenty of time to spare. The city was still buzzing with energy late into the night, and it felt warm and safe enough to head out and soak up the evening in the Piazza del Duomo with an Aperol, listening to late-night street musicians.

Day 7: Waking up in Florence and crossing the border into France

I woke up to blue skies in Florence and decided to join the morning runners along the Arno River through the green edges of Parco delle Cascine. It felt great to stretch my legs before a long travel day. Breakfast at my hotel (Hotel Magenta—highly recommend for the perfect location) was nice and unhurried, and I savored my last morning espresso before catching the first train to Turin for a quick transfer before crossing into France.

Harriet Matthews

Highlight: Taking the Paris Metro from Gare de Lyon to Gare du Nord on Halloween. I’ve never seen costumes look so chic.

Day 8: A Parisian farewell

It was a gray morning in Paris (and perhaps a pathetic fallacy for the end of an incredible trip). Before my midday Eurostar departure, I headed out for a morning stroll along the Canal Saint-Martin - one of my favorite pockets of Paris that’s within reach of Gare du Nord. After returning for a slow breakfast at the hotel (10/10 rating for the 25hours Hotel), I tapped away at some work before breezing through Eurostar check-in, just across the street for my trip home.

Where to stay: The quirky 25hours Hotel Paris Terminus Nord. It’s a chain, but they run it pretty well, with great sustainability creds and a real sensitivity to the unique local area. The Gare du Nord hotel is adorned with art and memorabilia that tells stories of the many subcultures of the neighborhood, which made for excellent bedtime reading.

Highlight: being able to literally see the Gare du Nord platforms from the bedroom window. It really helped me relax and enjoy my final evening.

I recalled all the moments I’d experienced along the journey. I was searching for Tuscany — another side to what I knew (and loved). I had found it. But just as much as the marshland, mountains and flamingos, I had also found a part of myself that was open to the unknown, the unexpected, and the surprising: revealing the wonder that can be found along the road less traveled.

Harriet Matthews

As I headed through French farmland toward St. Pancras, my apt paperback companion reminded me of the words of Frances Mayes in her novel, Under the Tuscan Sun: "Where you are is who you are. The further inside you the place moves, the more your identity is intertwined with it. Never casual, the choice of place is the choice of something you crave."

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