Three days in Northern Ireland: by land and sea
Slow travel doesn’t have to mean doing less. On a recent trip from Brighton to County Down, Northern Ireland, I discovered a region bursting with wild beauty, rich history, and truly inspiring local businesses - all easily reached by public transit. In just four days, I managed to fit in forest trails, cold water dips, seaweed foraging, whiskey tasting, and more - all at a relaxed pace, and all without leaving the ground.
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Day 1 – Arriving in Belfast
From Dromore, it was just a short bus ride farther to the Game of Thrones Studio Tour - a must for any fan of the series. Set in the original Linen Mill Studios, the tour brings the fantasy world to life with an incredible collection of original sets, props, and costumes. You can step inside the Great Hall of Winterfell, see the real Iron Throne, and wander through the actual sets that were used during filming. It’s atmospheric and surprisingly moving, whether you're a superfan or just tagging along.
Day 2 – Forest Trails and Seaweed Tales
The next morning, we headed into the storybook landscape of Tollymore Forest Park for an e-biking adventure with Life Adventure. Our awesome guide, Martin, shared stories about the park’s history while we wound through ancient woodland trails, past moss-covered rocks and cascading waterfalls that felt straight out of a fairy tale. The e-bikes made it easy to cover plenty of ground without feeling rushed, giving us time to soak in the quiet magic of the landscape.
After the ride, we met the team from Mourne Shack for a Wild River Dipping session in a tucked-away woodland stream, wrapped in the earthy scent of moss and the sounds of birdsong. The water was a bracing 46°F (8°C), but our guide - calm, knowledgeable, and encouraging - walked us through the Wim Hof method, showing us how to use breathwork and movement to stay centered and warm. Surrounded by ancient forest, it was equal parts invigorating and grounding, a feeling that lingered long after we stepped out of the water. The Mourne Shack team offers an array of outdoor activities around the Mourne Mountains which you can find on their website.
That afternoon, we visited Kilkeel to meet Michelle from Crawford’s Rock Seaweed, whose passion for healthy living, sustainability, and the power of sea greens was infectious. She welcomed us with a tasting of locally caught seafood, including pickled herring and delicious crab, and talked us through the health benefits of different sea greens and how they’re used in her family-run business. Afterward, we wandered down to a nearby beach where Michelle guided us along the shoreline, pointing out seaweeds that can be foraged or hand-harvested sustainably for all sorts of nutrient-rich foods and beauty products. Crawford’s has a long list of retailers around the region (including several in Kilkeel and Belfast) and also sells its products online where you can book tours as well. If you do go, don’t forget your water shoes!
Day 3 – City Layers and Local Flavors
Back in Belfast, I explored the city’s layered history. Walking along the Peace Wall and visiting Crumlin Road Gaol were both powerful reminders of Ireland’s past and resilience.
Tucked inside the jail’s A-Wing was something a little unexpected: McConnell’s Irish Whisky Distillery, housed within the beautifully restored former prison wing. We were welcomed with a drink (non-alcoholic options available) before being shown around the distillery by our guide, Sam, whose clear pride in the brand and gift for storytelling made the experience especially memorable. The tour ended with a cocktail-making workshop: hands-on, fun, and a great way to wrap up our visit.
That afternoon, we joined the Taste & Tour food experience, a guided walk through Belfast’s vibrant food scene. Our local guide led us between buzzing delis, cozy pubs, and specialty cafés, weaving in the stories behind the city’s food culture as we sampled everything from artisanal cheeses and charcuterie to handmade chocolates and locally roasted coffee. One unforgettable stop was The Morning Star, a family-run pub where I had the best seafood chowder of my life served with warm Guinness bread. All produce is sourced locally, with most of their suppliers being extended family, including the farmers and fishermen. Meeting the shop owners and artisan makers brought it all to life and provided a real flavor of the city’s creativity and community.
With a few hours to spare before my 10:30 p.m. ferry, I made my way to Kelly’s Cellars, the oldest pub in Belfast and a great spot to end the trip. Inside, low ceilings, worn stone walls, and candlelit tables set the scene for a lively evening of traditional music. A fiddle and guitar duo played in the corner while Guinness drinkers chatted around small tables—the perfect place to soak up a last bit of Belfast’s spirit before heading home.
Back to Brighton
By lunchtime the next day, I was back in Brighton, tired, happy, and still buzzing from the experience. Northern Ireland surprised me in the best way: wild and welcoming, small but full of depth. Traveling overland gave me time to absorb it all, from the forest air to the salt on my skin, the taste of a perfectly fresh bagel to a dram of whiskey. It’s a reminder that adventure doesn’t require air miles - just curiosity, a good train schedule, and an appetite for the road less traveled.
Take Megan's trip to Ireland by train and ferry, or check out more slow travel vacations to Ireland.
