How to: Christmas markets

Strings of lights. Whiffs of cinnamon. Warming gulps of Vin Chaud. 

Christmas markets: the merry, winter long weekender. Magical, sweet, and delightfully kitsch. A sure reminder that holidays are just as magical (if not more so) in deepest, darkest December as they are in mid-July. And on a slow travel trip by train, you can fill your boots: there's few luggage restrictions here. Schnapps, perhaps? No liquid limits either (and you certainly won't have to decant it into shampoo bottles). But how do you *do* Christmas markets?

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With 2024 set to be the Christmas of kitsch (thanks, at least in part, to John Lewis' newly launched Christmas collection, iykyk), the lure of Europe's Christmas markets feels more tempting than ever. My take: the Christmas market was not made to be the height of sophistication. So rather than resisting all things OTT, consider this your invitation to embrace all things Christmas and kitsch. What to eat, drink, and where to be downright merry.

To eat

Waffles are an acceptable evening meal. Syrup, and banana - because life's about balance. Anything gingery (the more fiery, the better), like Lebkuchen in Germany or Läckerli in Switzerland. When in Poland - a piping hot bowl of Pierogi: sweet or savoury fillings enveloped by unleavened dough, served with myriad sauces. 

Polish pierogi

To drink:

The glühwein is steaming. The chocolat Chaud is bubbling. Apfelwein by the gallon. Eggnog, or Schnapps - what are you drinking?

More importantly, what are you drinking from? It’s got to be cute and kitsch. Preferably, the sought-after Viennese boot mug. In Vienna (and much of Germany), expect to pay for your beverage and deposit for a novelty mug – always worth keeping as the perfect souvenir (and no disposable cups to be seen).

Gift-sourcing 101

When it comes to gift buying, consider the rule: eat it, drink it, burn it or bathe in it. No one gets stuck with stuff they can't get rid of - I mean, enjoy. Classic biscotti, a bottle of schnapps, hand-poured candles or scented bath oil (but make it glittery, please). Opt for locally-made, artisan, always (often easier to find in smaller markets, like Berlin's Gendarmenmarkt). Heading to Vienna? Art Advent are a group of artisan makers with the highest regulations on sustainable, local sourcing. 

What to do: the weird, and the wonderful

Of course, you can try your skating legs on the rink, hit the Ferris wheel, or catch an appropriately festive oompah band outside Cologne's Cathedral. But Christmas markets are also a playground for the strange and unorthodox. Like the Western-themed Christmas market held in the heart of the Bavarian Forest, or the Krampus run in Münich, where over 300 people run through the city centre dressed as the famous German Christmas character. 

Christmas markets, by train

Keep the hustle and bustle to the markets - not the journey. When it comes to travel, airport security is a surefire way to dampen the festive spirit. But a scenic train? The perfect companion to the Christmas market. Magical and timeless. Generous luggage allowance, no liquid restrictions, and no airport queues. Of course we're biased, but the train has an undeniable festive *je ne sais quoi*

Seraina Larissa

Let the magic of St Pancras at Christmas time set the tone. The station Christmas tree stands proud in the Victorian train shed. Breeze through check-in, gingerbread latte in hand. There's a window seat with your name on it. It's time to crank up the Christmas playlist. Prost for now!