From the Riviera to Tuscany

Solo travel is something that's always to me felt exciting and daunting in equal measure. Combined with rail travel (and flexible tickets thanks to Interrail), there's an unparalleled sense of freedom that comes with travelling solo through Europe. There are chance encounters, and an openness that makes rail travel uniquely positioned to tick all the boxes for solo travel. At the same time, I have always relished the holidays spent with those closest to me. As a serious 'people person', travelling alongside others offers the chance to catch up over a longer period of time than a quick drink, and to see a different side to friends and family. Most significantly, sharing memories of new places and experiences is one of life's greatest gifts.

So as my ideas for my next adventure began to take shape, I considered a hybrid: solo travel, combined with a few nights spent with two of my nearest and dearest: my Mum (who lives in the Netherlands) and an old university friend.

And so commenced a trip of many trips in one, as I watched he landscape shifts from the half-timbered charm of France to the red-hued porticos of Italy, ending with the salty breeze of the Riviera. After meeting my mum in Strasbourg, I embarked on the solo part of my journey in Italy, before meeting my old friend in Nice. With a book in one hand and a glass of local wine in the other, this was a trip that reminded me of the joy of travelling solo, with others, and by rail (and occasionally by a giant 4x4 truck - more on that later!).

Day 1 & 2: Strasbourg’s spires and sparkling wine

I kicked things off by travelling from London through Paris to meet my mum in Strasbourg, who travelled there by train herself from the Netherlands. We wasted no time diving into the local culture, wandering the streets and tucking into a traditional Flamkuchen (tarte flambée).

Day two was Good Friday, so the city was peacefully locked down. We took a boat tour along the waterways, navigating through the locks all the way down to the Parliament. Lunch was a lesson in French indulgence: a "salad" that was essentially a mountain of cheese, washed down with chilled red wine. To work it off, we took on the Cathedral stairs, with some healthy mother-daughter competition on who could reach the top quickest. The view from the top was worth every step, though we were very happy to settle down afterward with a glass of Crémant in the sun.

Highlight: The view from the top of the Cathedral. It's the best spot to get the lay of the land.

Tip: If you’re in Strasbourg, try the Cremant, the local version of Champagne and just as good.

Day 3: Trinkets and The Purgatory

We spent Saturday morning hunting for treasures at the antique market. Strasbourg’s Old Town is a labyrinth of boutiques that are dangerous for the wallet but great for the soul. Shopping is one of our favourite activities on our yearly mother-daughter weekends away, and we walked back to the hotel with lots of bags and time to rest our legs. For dinner, we found a tucked-away spot called Le Purgatoire. Don’t let the name scare you - it was heavenly. We shared small plates, and the fish rillettes and duck breast were absolute standouts.

Highlight: Finding unique clothes and trinkets in the boutiques.

Tip: Make a reservation at Le Purgatoire.

Day 4: A Swiss sojourn to Bologna

After a hearty breakfast and a supermarket stop for train snacks, I said goodbye to my mum and started on my solo journey to Italy via Switzerland, with a perfectly timed stopover in Zürich. I locked my bags at the station and stretched my legs with a walk along the river. The train journey toward the Italian border was breathtaking; as we skirted Lake Ulm, the mountains finally began to show their snowy peaks. By evening, I got to the "Red City": Bologna.

Highlight: The gorgeous view from the train going right next Lake Ulm.

Tip: Use the luggage lockers at Zürich HB to explore the city hands-free during a layover.

Day 5: Red buildings and Renaissance magic

I spent the morning getting my bearings in Bologna with a voice map tour, learning about the history of the city. The architecture was stunning, and it’s easy to see where the town gets its nickname with so many shades of red. Weaving through the terracotta passages, I happened upon an incense-filled church, with light streaming from the windows. Stumbling into tiny chapels is one of Italy's charms, and often they're remarkably ornate despite being incredibly unassuming from the outside.

After a fresh truffle pasta lunch and a glass of wine, I hopped a quick train to Florence. I loved Bologna much more than I thought I would, and spent a long time walking around the city - which was possible because I had no set time to leave on my Interrail pass as it is a regional train. Despite the Easter Monday crowds, arriving into the piazza felt like the place to be. I wasn’t tired yet and downloaded yet another voice map tour, walking around the city and ending up at a wine bar where I read my book in the sun.

Highlight: The sensory overload of incense in a hidden Bologna church.

Tip: Download a self-guided audio tour to navigate cities at your own pace.

Day 6: The Tuscan wine safari

This was easily one of the most unique days of the trip. I traded the train for a massive 4WD vehicle and headed into Tuscany's hills. We visited two boutique vineyards, Poggio al Sole, and Poggio Torselli (with  a stunning villa). The highlight was tasting a Blanc de Noir, a white wine made from red grapes that looked exactly like water but tasted complex and delicious. We finished the day with a long, shared lunch at a table set right in the middle of the vines. After a few days of travelling solo, I enjoyed being around people again and cherished getting to know the rest of the people on the tour. I ended the day with a walk around the beautiful piazzas with a gelato.

Highlight: That mind-bending Blanc de Noir wine.

Tip: Bring water for the wine safari, to help settle the stomach during bendy roads!

Day 7 & 8: Italian Riviera and hidden bays

I headed to the coast, stopping over in Milan before arriving at Santa Margherita Ligure. While crowds flock to Portofino, staying in Santa Margherita felt like I’d uncovered a secret way to enjoy the Italian Riviera in a more authentic spot. I enjoyed a Spritz in the sun, which in this region of Italy is accompanied by a generous platter of complimentary aperitifs. The next day, I walked in the direction of Portofino but stopped after about an hour after finding a tiny, secluded beach with only three other people on it. My friendly host had given me some focaccia which I enjoyed on the pebbled beach, reading my book with the background sounds of the waves. 

Highlight: Finding a "secret" beach for a quiet morning swim.

Tip: Skip the crowds of Portofino and stay in Santa Margherita; you can have the same experience without the luxe price tag.

Day 9: The glittering lights of Nice

The scenic train ride from Ventimiglia into France is a dream, the Italian Riviera slowly turns into the more recognisable views of the French Riviera, scattered with palm trees with sparkling blue water behind. I met up with an old university friend, Fleur, for a weekend of catching up. We started with a Pastis by the coast and had dinner outside. We spent the next day exploring the shaded Old Town, scouting out wicker basket shops and visiting a famous 18th-century confectionery in a stunning building. The night ended with a 3-course meal including French classics like snails and entrecote at Chez Moi (with a beautiful hand-written menu). The evening continued as we stumbled upon a light show in the Notre Dame.

Highlight: Catching up over Pastis.

Tip: Visit Confiserie Maison Auer for their famous candied fruit.

Day 10 & 11: Socca and the City of Light

Before leaving Nice, I had to try Socca, the local crispy chickpea pancake. Whilst eating it straight from the oven, walking on the street, we got some nods from friendly locals, which felt like we were doing it right. Then, I said goodbye to my friend, and it was back on the rails to Paris for one final celebratory meal: three courses ending with a decadent chocolate mousse and a view of the river. By Monday morning, it was time for the Eurostar back to London and the end of my ‘not so solo’ adventure by train

Highlight: A final Parisian chocolate mousse with a view.

Tip: Grab some Socca from a street vendor in Nice for the perfect cheap and delicious travel snack.