Food and drink in Hauts-de-France

​​​​What comes to mind when you think of French food? Is it boeuf bourguignon, bouillabaisse, or cassoulet? How about tartiflette, salade niçoise or crêpes? Or maybe it’s flutes of Champagne and a full-bodied red from Bordeaux.

Whatever it is, it’s probably not the “Welsh,” served in an iron skillet that could feed four, with a side of fries (not frites… think thick-cut, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside delights), slipper-shaped gaufres (or waffles, pour les anglophones), and beers of every strength, flavor, and variety. And I bet it’s not vegan food in local, seasonal, and organic restaurants.

However, these are just some of the unique and surprising treats that I discovered on my four-day slow travel trip with my Byway colleagues to the region of Hauts-de-France. This northern powerhouse has a vibe that at times seems more Belgian, Dutch, or even British, than French (and when I found out about its history, I could see why). Meanwhile, the food was as warm and varied, and the portions as generous, as the people we met in the area, and it was the perfect place to embark on an unexpected and satisfying gastronomic odyssey.

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Adrienne Salmon

Where to eat in Hauts-de-France

Lille

When in Lille, visit Aux Moules de Lille for the region's iconic dish, the Welsh. It’s related to Welsh rarebit but supersized, and with far more cheese, beer, and mustard than its counterpart. If you’d prefer to taste the restaurant’s specialty, then dive into the moules aux mourilles, a pot full of mussels with an onion and cheese sauce made with the strong-smelling, buttery-tasting local cheese. Sample vanilla, or speculoos (a cinnamon-spiced cookie, in spread form) filled gaufre at local institution Meert, before heading out on a beer-tasting tour of the city with L'Echappée Bière. Finish up with some more high-quality drafts at Le Capsule, Lille’s coolest craft beer joint.

Hauts-de-France Tourisme / Anne-Sophie Flament

Arras

After a stroll around the sights of Arras, and a visit to the deeply moving Wellington Quarry, an expanse of underground tunnels that were used as living quarters in WWI, enjoy lunch at l’Ouef ou la Poule. They offer a true “the chicken or the egg” experience, with a local beer pairing for each dish. The market is an absolute delight, with local produce the star of the show.

Maria Cortenbach

Amiens

In Amiens, the Michelin-recommended restaurant, Ail des Ours, offers a four- or six-course tasting menu of visually impressive dishes made from local, seasonal ingredients – where nothing is as it seems, and vegetarians can be catered to. The local market that lines the Somme on the weekends is perfect for a morning stroll and fresh veggies, followed by lunch at Au Quotidien for casual dining and a seasonally changing menu with vegan options (including desserts). Buy yourself some macarons d’Amiens from Jean Trogneux, a fluffy, sugary, almond-based treat that's even more satisfying than its pastel-hued Parisian counterpart.

Hauts-de-France Tourisme / Anne-Sophie Flament

Boulogne-sur-Mer

While in Boulogne-sur-Mer, Le Grange du Monsieur Guy offers tapas-style dishes with regional flavors that are made for sharing, as you sample the beers brewed in-house (the brewery’s impressive mash tuns are in the dining room where you chow down). Meanwhile, the Vole Hole is the perfect place for a nightcap, a tiny bar that has a select range of drinks and platters of cheese and meat to nibble on as you soak up the lively atmosphere. If you’re looking for fresh fish, sellers line the waterfront and for a quick refreshment nearby, the quirky bar Beers’N’Paradise has a rock’n’roll vibe, and a seating area downstairs with old bus seats. Make sure to pick up some speculoos pralines from Chocolat de Beussent Lachelle for the trip home.

Discover a lesser-known part of French cuisine on Byway’s four-day gastronomic adventure around Hauts-de-France, or check out our other slow travel trips to France.

Read about Aiesha's day trip to Lille, the art of slow travel, or six of the best scenic train rides in Europe.

If you’d like to learn more about the region, visit the Hauts-de-France tourisme website.