An American travel diary: new places and old friends

Maddy shares her travel diary through eight countries, filled with scenic trains, castles, wine, and the joy of friendship across Europe.

Being from the States, I had no idea what to expect during our ten-day Interrail excursion, with stops in eight different cities and routes through seven different countries (eight if you include the small country of Liechtenstein nestled between Austria and Switzerland). The furthest I’d traveled outside of the U.S. was Spain and Ireland years ago, and all of our travel was on foot or by bus, so navigating the Interrail system was completely foreign to me. I did know, however, that a cozy yet adventurous vacation with my two oldest friends, Jake and Macy, was exactly what I needed. And with Byway carefully planning our stops and routes, and being on call when we needed them (see Day 7…), I felt comforted and confident by the time I’d crossed the pond. 

Day 1: Amsterdam to Vienna on the Nightjet Sleeper 

After spending the weekend in Utrecht riding bikes along the canal and trying to learn German in only two days, we readied ourselves for a fourteen-hour passage from the Netherlands to Austria. Warmth and gratitude bubbled through me as we changed out of our day clothes and into our PJs for a night filled with card games, wine, cheese, and wonderful company. When it was finally time to get tucked in, the hum of the sleeper train lulled me right to sleep. I dreamt of Sachertorte and Sausage and awoke to a light breakfast being delivered right to our compartment, in Vienna.

Highlight: Reading my fantasy novel all cozied up in my bunk.

Tip: Bring slippers if you have the space for them! It makes trips to the bathroom and the food car much easier. 

Day 2: Cathedrals, Cafes, and Jazz in Vienna 

Our first day in Vienna was one of many, many steps. After traipsing from the station to the Hotel Johann Strauss, we showered and readied ourselves for the day ahead. Our collective first priority was coffee, so we found an adorable breakfast spot called Das Goldstück to quench our thirst and satiate our morning hunger. While the complimentary train breakfast was great, we were looking for something a bit heartier than bread and jam. I did make the mistake of ordering a “Kurkuma latte” thinking Kurkuma was a delicious Viennese novelty and was a bit disappointed when the initial sip let me know ‘kurkuma’ is just German for ‘turmeric’. Nevertheless, the breakfast pictured below gave me all the fuel I needed to explore the city. 

We stumbled upon St. Stephen’s Cathedral in search of a bathroom and the interior was breathtaking. I would not consider myself a godly woman, but the architecture alone was enough to make my spirit quiver. Unsure of where to go next, we chased the sun and found outdoor seating at the Hapsburg palace to enjoy a glass of wine. The sun set over the grassy park, so we migrated to Cafe Centraal for a coffee to warm us up before some hot jazz at Jazzland. Don’t let the entrance fool you! Once you open the dingy back door, a stone staircase leads you down to the 500-year old cellar that now houses the oldest jazz club in Austria. 

Highlight: Our German sausage at Jazzland.

Tip: Many places take card payments, but Jazzland is cash only, so make sure to hit an ATM before you get there. 

Day 3: More Bread, New Music, and Schönbrunn

Our third day began with a decadent breakfast spread at the hotel, and perfectly prepared lattes from NO PANIC Coffee. We took public transit from the city center to Schönbrunn for a grand tour of the palace grounds. The train stations along the way matched Vienna’s elegance with their tiled ground and pristine exterior. Once we satiated our palatial fix, we sat at several different natural wine bars and indulged in more card games and conversation. 

Straying slightly from the natural wine, we ordered three shots of Stroh, not realizing this 80% proof Austrian rum is meant to be diluted in a warm beverage. Needless to say it cleansed our physical palates for some scrumptious ramen at Maka, and our mental palates for some Prokoviev (Gregory, not Igor) at Musikverein. 

Highlight: The unforgettable ramen at Maka!

Tip: There are multiple different concert halls at Musikverein, so make sure you do some research into which one you’ll be going to and bring some cash for the mandatory coat check. 

Day 4: Vienna to Ljubljana for natural wine and fine dining

After indulging in the bountiful breakfast buffet, we boarded our train along the Semmering Line to Ljubljana. Having never considered travel to Slovenia, I entrusted my Europe-based travel companions who assured me that this would be a worthwhile stop. As soon as we got off the train and saw the quaint city surrounded by snow capped mountains, I knew this would be our favorite destination. 

While I took a brief nap, Jake and Macy wasted no time in finding Kletvica, a natural wine bar about five minutes from our hotel. They raved about their selections and the sommelier recommended several spots for dinner. After a brief cocktail at Ferdinanad, we were en route to AFTR for one of the best meals I’ve ever had. With the sweet aromas of Adriatic fish, fresh schnitzel, and buckwheat groats still lingering on my clothes, I drifted off and dreamt of what the next day may bring. 

Highlight: I won at cards. 

Tip: Ljubljana is small but mighty- take the time to walk around and digest the various food options before you decide where to go to dinner. 

Day 5: More Ljubljana! Sights, boats, dumplings, and feminist film

The day began (like most) with a delightful breakfast buffet in the lobby. This one featured local jams, cheeses, and more, and we certainly took advantage of the entire spread to fuel up for our big day. Leaving the hotel, we made a quick pit stop at Moji Struklji to experience some traditional Slovenian dumplings. With bellies extra full, we headed straight up the hill for Ljubliana Castle to find gorgeous architecture, and a breathtaking view of the city. 

Through local food shops and vendors, we found our way to Moje Tvoje, a vintage/ thrift shop with some of the funkiest clothes I’ve ever seen. After my sweet find (see Highlight), Macy and I embarked on a relaxing boat tour, while Jake embarked on a relaxing nap back at the hotel. If there’s one thing you learn from this blog, it’s that rest is both necessary and recommended in order to make the most of your time and energy! We boarded the wooden vessel with a large (and comically loud) group of Australians, enjoyed some local wine, and saw the city from a whole new angle. 

After meeting Jake at Raw Pasta for dinner, Macy and I headed to the kinoteka for a beautiful viewing of this year’s Rdece Zore feminist short films. The films were both captivating and bewildering and I think it’s safe to say that both of us saw things we had never seen before, and may never see again in our lifetimes. Definitely worth the watch if you happen to be in Ljubljana for Rdece Zore.

Highlight: Not pictured- the BEST hot chocolate I have ever had in my life at Kavarna

Tip: If you book a boat tour, be sure to arrive five minutes early. Those boats leave right on schedule! 

Day 6: Ljubljana to Trieste for art, trains, and a lot of limoncello 

Breakfast, coffee, and we were on our way to Cukarna to view the latest art exhibitions before our train from Ljubljana to Trieste. The museum had multiple different floors and robust descriptions for each artist and exhibition. One of my favorites (pictured below) was a transcendentally provocative multimedia piece called “Topologies of Air”. 

While I could go on and on about the art at Cukarna, we’ve got a whole other country to get to! The train ride to Trieste featured spectacular views of the Slovenian countryside and Italy's coast. We arrived just as the sun was setting on the water, and there must have been a few hundred people gathered around the docks to take in nature’s stunning offering. 

Dinner was a bit of a struggle for us, as most places were full or required a reservation, but once we found a spot, we stuffed ourselves with homemade pasta and several shots of limoncello. Topping it all off with a lick of gelato, we made our way back to our cozy apartment hotel to ensure a good night’s rest for our early and lengthy train ride to Innsbruck the following day. 

Highlight: The several free rounds of limoncello (I mean, come on)!

Tip: Make dinner plans ahead of time if visiting at the weekend. We tried about five different spots, all of which were full, before we found somewhere that would seat us. 

Day 7: Travels and (slight) Tribulations on the way from Trieste to Innsbruck, via Venice

Awaking at the crack of dawn to catch our early train, we ate a quick breakfast using the complimentary food provided in our accommodation, and descended the stairs to the Trieste streets below. In no time we were in Venice, for what was planned to be a quick and easy transfer to our Innsbruck train. 

Seeing the floating city and the aqua canals in the quiet morning was a perfect way to stretch our legs after the first train. We had some fresh coffee and croissants while we walked along the cobblestone alleys, wasting time before our connecting train. 

Our smooth, peaceful morning came to a screeching halt when we got back to the station. Our train had been cancelled and they were instead bussing passengers to Innsbruck. Thankfully, Jake hopped on a quick call with Byway and they sorted an alternate train route that left shortly after our original train was scheduled to leave. We even got a brief stop in Verona as a result of the mishap, adding another city to our roster.

After a long day of travel through the Brenner Pass, we arrived at our next (and sort of final) destination, relishing in the fresh evening air on our walk to Hotel Innsbruck. 

Highlight: Soaking up some sun and stocking up on groceries in Venice before leaving for Innsbruck.

Tip: Take advantage of the food provided with your accommodation (if there is any). It can save you some money and a hungry belly for those long train rides!

Day 8: Mountains, mountains, and more mountains in Innsbruck

I awoke to the most beautiful view I’ve ever been privileged to have seen in my life. The picture below was taken from our hotel window, and says more than I could ever say through words. 

The mountain air, the most delectable coffee from karaffu, the friendly locals and university students livening the streets with laughter and conversation. It became apparent quickly that Innsbruck was a special place. And it became more apparent as the day went on, that we really wanted to get to the top of that mountain. 

As someone who is deeply afraid of cable cars, the experience is absolutely worth it. We hopped on the funicular from the valley and then transferred to a cable car to reach the tippity Top of Innsbruck. After enjoying the sights and sensations, we made our way back down and grabbed a drink at HokusPokus for a drink before dinner. We imbibed, reminisced on our trip and our years of friendship, and eventually became fast friends with the bartender, making plans to meet with him for lunch the next day. The night ended with a swim and a sauna at our hotel, preparing us for our final moments of wonder.

Highlight: See picture above.

Tip: Go to the Top of Innsbruck!

Day 9 and 10: A full-circle farewell on the way from Innsbruck to Utrecht by way of Zürich

None of us could believe our ten-day excursion was coming to a close, so we naturally drowned our sorrows in the complimentary hotel breakfast jams and waffles. Basking in the Innsbruck air, we strolled the streets one last time before meeting our new friend, Maxim for lunch at The Naked Indigo. Maxim told us stories about his studies at university, his hometown, and his passion for climate activism. He graciously offered to walk us to the station, and just like that, we were en route to Zürich.

Byway truly saved the best trip for last. Our route via the Arlberg Railway showcased thrilling cliffs, valleys, rivers, and mountaintops. We barely wanted to play a game of cards- that’s how you know the sights were something to behold. The train eventually landed us in Zürich in the evening, where we met up with an old friend of Macy’s and stocked up on Swiss cheeses, chocolates, and other delights. 

Drifting off on our final sleeper, after eating way too much cheese and playing way too many rounds of cards, I realized that I couldn’t have dreamt up a trip like this if I’d tried. Reliving the wondrous places we visited, the kind individuals we met along the way, and the decade long friendships we fostered throughout our travels overwhelms me with joy. I can’t thank my friends enough for what we shared and I can’t thank Byway enough for making it all possible. 

Highlight: All of it.
Tip: Book through Byway.

Check out our trips to Austria, Slovenia, Italy and Switzerland.

For American tales about slow travel train journeys, read about an American travelling solo from Bari to Budapest, or read our guide to European train vacations.

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