Food and drink in Hauts-de-France
What comes to mind when you think of French food? Is it boeuf bourguignon, bouillabaisse or cassoulet? How about tartiflette, salade niçoise or crêpes? Or maybe it’s flutes of Champagne and a full bodied-red from Bordeaux.
Whatever it is, it’s probably not the ‘Welsh’, served in an iron skillet that could feed four, with a side of chips (not frites… think thick-cut, crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside delights), slipper-shaped gaufres (or waffles, pour les anglophones), and beers of every strength, flavour and variety. And I bet it’s not vegan food in local, seasonal and organic restaurants.
Photo by Adrienne Salmon
However, these are just some of the unique and surprising treats that I discovered on my four-day trip with my wonderful colleagues to the French region of Hauts-de-France. This northern powerhouse has a vibe that at times seems more Belgian, Dutch, or even British, than French (and when I found out about its history, I could see why). Meanwhile, the food was as warm and varied, and the portions as generous, as the people we met in the area, and it was the perfect place to embark on an unexpected and satisfying gastronomic odyssey.
Where to eat in Hauts-de-France
Lille:
When in Lille, visit Aux Moules for the region's iconic dish, the Welsh. It’s related to the Welsh rarebit but supersized, and with far more cheese, beer and mustard than its counterpart. If you’d prefer to taste the restaurant’s speciality, then dive into the moules aux mourilles, a pot full of mussels with an onion and cheese sauce made with the strong-smelling, buttery tasting local cheese. Sample vanilla, or speculoos (a cinnamon-spiced biscuit, in spread form) filled gaufre at local institution Meert, before heading out on a beer-tasting tour of the city with L'Echappée Bière. Finish up with some more high-quality drafts at Le Capsule, Lille’s coolest craft beer joint.
Photo by CRTC Hauts-de-France / Frédérik Astier
Arras:
After a stroll around the sights of Arras, and a visit to the deeply moving Wellington Quarry, an expanse of underground tunnels that were used as living quarters in WWI, enjoy a lunch at l’Ouef ou la Poule. They offer a true ‘the chicken or the egg’ experience, with a local beer pairing for each dish. The market is an absolute delight, with local produce the star of the show.
Amiens:
In Amiens, the Michelin-recommended restaurant, Ail des Ours, offers a four or six-course tasting menu of visually impressive dishes made from local, seasonal ingredients – where nothing is as it seems, and vegetarians can be catered for. The local market that lines the Somme on the weekends is perfect for a morning stroll and fresh veg, followed by lunch at Au Quotidien for casual dining and a seasonally changing menu with vegan options (including desserts). Buy yourself some macarons d’Amiens from Jean Trogneux, a fluffy, sugary, almond-based treat that is even more satisfying than its pastel-hued Parisian counterpart.
Boulogne-sur-Mer
While in Boulogne-sur-Mer, Le Grange du Monsieur Guy offers tapas-styles dishes with regional flavours that are made for sharing, as you sample the beers brewed in house (the brewery’s impressive mash tuns are in the dining room where you chow down). Meanwhile, The Vole Hole is the perfect place for a nightcap, a tiny bar that has a select range of drinks and platters of cheese and meat to nibble as you soak up the lively atmosphere. If you’re after fresh fish, sellers line the waterfront and for a quick refreshment nearby, the quirky bar ‘Beers’N’Paradise’ has a rock’n’roll vibe, and a seating area downstairs with old coach seats. Make sure to pick up some speculoos pralines from Chocolat de Beussent Lachelle for the journey home.
Discover a lesser-known part of French cuisine on Byway’s four-day gastronomic adventure around Hauts-de-France. If you’d like to learn more about the region, visit the Hauts-de-France tourisme website.
